Glossary of Antique Jewelry Terms

Antique
Jewelry that is over 100 years old. Pieces from earlier eras like Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Nouveau are often classified as antique.

Art Deco
A jewelry style that emerged in the 1920s and 1930s, characterized by bold geometric shapes, vibrant colors, and the use of materials like platinum, diamonds, and emeralds.

Art Nouveau
A late 19th-century jewelry style known for its organic, flowing lines, nature-inspired designs, and use of materials like enamel and semi-precious stones.

Assay
A process of testing the purity of metals like gold or silver in jewelry. It often results in the hallmark stamp that indicates metal quality.

Bakelite
An early plastic used in jewelry during the early 20th century, especially in the Art Deco period. It became popular for its bold, colorful designs.

Cabochon
A gemstone that is polished and shaped with a smooth, rounded surface rather than being faceted. This cut is common in antique jewelry for stones like opals and moonstones.

Cameo
A piece of jewelry, often a brooch or pendant, that features a raised image (often a portrait or scene) carved into materials like shell, stone, or coral.

Carat
A unit of weight used for gemstones, especially diamonds. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams.

Chasing
A decorative technique where patterns or designs are hammered onto the surface of a metal piece without cutting into the metal.

Cloisonné
A type of enamelwork where thin metal wires are soldered to the surface of a piece, forming compartments that are then filled with enamel.

Cut Steel
Jewelry made with small, polished steel beads that mimic the sparkle of gemstones. Popular in Georgian and Victorian jewelry.

Enamel
A decorative technique where powdered glass is fused to metal surfaces by heat, creating a colorful and glossy finish often used in Art Nouveau and Victorian pieces.

Filigree
A delicate jewelry design created by twisting thin threads of metal, typically gold or silver, into intricate patterns. Filigree work was popular during the Edwardian and Victorian eras.

Foil-Backed
A technique where gemstones are backed with a thin layer of metallic foil to enhance their brilliance and color. Common in Georgian jewelry.

Hallmark
A stamp or engraving on a piece of jewelry that indicates the type of metal used, its purity, and sometimes the country or maker of the piece. Common on antique gold and silver jewelry.

Intaglio
The opposite of a cameo, where an image is carved into the surface of a gemstone or material, creating a recessed design.

Marquise Cut
A type of gemstone cut that is elongated with pointed ends, resembling a boat. This cut was popular in antique engagement rings.

Mourning Jewelry
Jewelry worn to commemorate the death of a loved one, often made with materials like black onyx, jet, or hair. Popular in the Victorian era following Prince Albert’s death.

Old Mine Cut
An early form of diamond cutting that dates back to the 18th century. It has a cushion shape with larger facets, which gives it a unique, softer sparkle compared to modern diamonds.

Patina
A natural tarnish or aging that occurs on metal surfaces over time, giving antique jewelry its characteristic vintage appearance.

Pavé
A setting technique where small gemstones are set closely together, covering the surface of the jewelry with minimal metal visible, creating a "paved" look.

Repoussé
A metalworking technique where a design is hammered into the back of the piece, pushing the metal outward to create a raised pattern on the front.

Rose Cut
An antique gemstone cut, primarily used for diamonds, with a flat bottom and a domed, faceted top, resembling the petals of a rose. Popular during the Georgian and Victorian eras.

Seed Pearls
Tiny, delicate pearls often used as accents in antique jewelry. They were especially popular in Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian designs.

Suffragette Jewelry
Jewelry from the early 20th century that featured purple (for dignity), green (for hope), and white (for purity) gemstones, symbolizing the women's suffrage movement.

Victorian
Jewelry made during Queen Victoria's reign (1837–1901), known for its sentimental and symbolic designs. Divided into the Early, Mid, and Late Victorian periods, each with distinct styles.

Tiaras & Diadems
Headpieces or crowns often worn during formal occasions or weddings. Antique examples were popular in the Georgian and Victorian eras, frequently encrusted with gemstones.

This glossary offers a basic introduction to the unique terminology associated with antique jewelry, helping collectors and enthusiasts better appreciate the beauty, craftsmanship, and history of these precious items.