Jewellery from the Georgian Period to the Mid-20th Century

Jewellery has always been a reflection of the times, capturing the essence of each era through its craftsmanship, design, and symbolism. From the opulence of the Georgian period to the modernism of the mid-20th century, the evolution of jewellery is a fascinating journey through history. In this blog, we'll explore the distinctive characteristics of jewellery from the Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, and mid-century periods.

The Georgian Period (1714–1837)

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The Georgian period, named after the reigns of the four King Georges of England, was a time of elegance and grandeur. Jewellery from this era is rare today, as much of it was melted down or repurposed over the years. However, the pieces that have survived showcase intricate craftsmanship and a love for the ornate.

Characteristics:

• Materials: Gold was the dominant metal, often paired with silver for its ability to enhance the brilliance of gemstones.
• Gemstones: Diamonds were prized usually set in closed-back settings to reflect light. Gemstones such as emeralds, rubies, and sapphires were also popular. Garnets, topaz & pearls featured prominently, often in cluster settings.
• Design: Georgian jewellery was heavily influenced by nature, with motifs such as leaves, flowers, and birds. Techniques like repoussé (hammering designs into metal), cannetille (fine gold wirework), and foiling (placing a foil behind gemstones to enhance colour) were commonly used.
• Sentimentality: This period saw the rise of sentimental jewellery, including mourning rings and lockets containing hair or miniature portraits of loved ones.

The Victorian Era (1837–1901)

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Romantic Period (1837–1860):

• Characteristics: Reflecting Queen Victoria's love for Prince Albert, jewellery from this time was romantic and sentimental.  Serpent motifs, symbolising eternal love, were popular, as were lockets and brooches.
• Materials: Gold remained the favoured metal, often paired with coloured gemstones such as turquoise, amethyst, and garnets. Seed pearls were frequently used to create delicate designs.

Grand Period (1860–1885):

• Characteristics: After Prince Albert's death in 1861, jewellery took on a more somber tone. Mourning jewellery, made from black materials such as jet, onyx, and enamel, became fashionable. Designs were heavier and more elaborate.
• Materials: Gold, often darkened with oxidization, and black gemstones or materials were prevalent. Cameos, depicting classical scenes, became iconic during this period.

Aesthetic Period (1885–1901):

• Characteristics: As the Victorian era drew to a close, there was a shift towards lighter, more whimsical designs. The Aesthetic movement embraced nature and Japanese influences, resulting in asymmetrical patterns and delicate motifs.
• Materials: Silver became more popular, along with semi-precious stones like opals, moonstones, and coral. Enamel work was also prominent, adding vibrant colour to jewellery.

The Edwardian Era (1901–1910)

The Edwardian Era (1901–1910)

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The Edwardian era, named after King Edward VII, was a time of elegance and sophistication. Jewellery from this period is characterised by its light, airy designs and a focus on refinement.

Characteristics:

• Materials: Platinum became the metal of choice, prized for its strength and ability to hold intricate details. Diamonds were the primary gemstone, often set in delicate filigree or milgrain designs.
• Design: Edwardian jewellery was heavily influenced by the Art Nouveau movement, with flowing lines, garlands, and bow motifs. Pearls were also popular, often used in tiaras, necklaces, and earrings.
• Themes: Feminine and romantic themes dominated, with lace-like patterns and floral motifs. The use of coloured gemstones was minimal, with the emphasis on diamonds and pearls.

The Art Deco Era (1920–1935)

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The Art Deco era was a period of boldness and innovation, reflecting the modernity and exuberance of the Roaring Twenties. Jewellery from this time is known for its geometric patterns, vibrant colours, and a departure from the delicate designs of the past.

Characteristics:

• Materials: White metals like platinum and white gold were favoured, often paired with diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies. Bakelite and other early plastics were also used in costume jewellery.
• Design: Art Deco jewellery is characterised by its geometric shapes, symmetry, and streamlined forms. The influence of ancient Egyptian, African, and Asian art is evident in many designs, with motifs like sunbursts, chevrons, and zigzags.
• Themes: The era celebrated modernity, with jewellery often reflecting the architectural styles of the time, such as skyscrapers and machinery. Long necklaces, cocktail rings, and brooches were popular accessories.

The Mid-20th Century (1940s–1960s)

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The mid-20th century saw significant changes in fashion and jewellery, influenced by World War II and the rise of Hollywood glamour. Jewellery became more accessible, with a focus on practicality and bold, statement pieces.

1940s:

• Characteristics: The war years led to a scarcity of precious metals, resulting in the use of materials like sterling silver, rose gold, and vermeil. Designs were often patriotic, featuring motifs like stars, flags, and military insignia.
• Style: Retro jewellery emerged, characterised by oversized, chunky designs with large gemstones. Ribbon-like motifs and three-dimensional forms were common.

1950s–1960s:

• Characteristics: Post-war prosperity brought a return to luxury, with a renewed interest in diamonds and platinum. Jewellery became more refined, with a focus on elegance and sophistication.
• Design: The 1950s saw the rise of the “cocktail party” look, with elaborate earrings, necklaces, and bracelets designed to be worn together. Floral and nature-inspired motifs continued to be popular, while the 1960s introduced more abstract and modernist designs.

Themes: Hollywood played a significant role in shaping jewellery trends, with actresses like Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor influencing popular styles. The mid-century era also saw the rise of designer jewellery houses, such as Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels, whose creations became status symbols.

Conclusion

From the opulent and intricate designs of the Georgian period to the bold and modern styles of the mid-20th century, jewellery has evolved significantly over the centuries. Each era brought its own unique characteristics and innovations, reflecting the cultural and social changes of the time. Whether you're a collector, a history enthusiast, or simply a lover of beautiful things, the journey through the history of jewellery offers endless inspiration and admiration.